(poll)what's your standard for best box mod?

What's your standard for best box mod?
how about the price?what kind of functions should it has?How about the battery? How about the power?
Tell us your idea for what a best box mod should be?
how about the price?
  1. $30-$5012 votes
    1. $50-$100
    2. >$100
  2. how about the battery option?12 votes
    1. replaceable battery
    2. build in battery
  3. how many batteries12 votes
    1. one battery
    2. two batteries
    3. three batteries
  4. what kind of function should it has?12 votes
    1. voltage/wattage adjustable
    2. Temperature control
  • 13 Comments sorted by Votes Date Added
  • A MOD should not be obsolete in a few months. A MOD should be both repairable and update-able by the consumer. Therefore, Aspire should define a MOD as MODular unit. I recommend the following replaceable standard sized modules:
    - user interface
    - control / communications
    - power / sensor

    The user interface consists of the display and user controls (buttons, thumbwheels, etc) these may be separated, or sold a a combined unit. The reasoning for this is that a common point of failure for MODs made by any manufacturer is the buttons used for control.

    The control / communications module contains the microprocessor and communications interfaces. The communications interfaces at a minimum shall consist of a micro USB port, and may include WiFi, Bluetooth, or other hardware. The firmware for the microprocessor shall be update-able through at least one of the communications interfaces, and shall contain diagnostics capable of isolating a fault to one of the modules, batteries, or the installed tank.

    The power / sensor module contains the coil drivers, battery charging circuitry; and coil, battery, and environment monitoring circuitry. Other modules plug-in to this module. This module would normally use the case as a heat sink. This module may be made available in different power handling capacities.

    Some of the functions on these modules may need to be shifted to another module, but I think the idea is sound.

    Cases are the aesthetics that must accommodate the function of the MOD by containing the batteries and electronics. There is a lot of room to play in this area. Something to keep in mind is that folks have different sized hands. Mine are large. The Pegasus mini gets lost in my hand, and does not naturally fall into place. The larger Pegasus is much better. My favorite MOD for the feel and fit is currently the Smoktech X-Cube 2. I currently use it with Aspire's Atlantis, Triton, and Triton mini tanks.

    I've described what I'd like to see physically, and how the electronics is implemented. Later, I'll post how I'd like to see the control module implements the actual vaping functions for the MOD.

    The number of batteries should be tied to the power output, or physical size of the MOD. Stuff as many into the MOD as its size allows.
  • When looking for a mod, first I look for a comfort in hand, pleasing appearance, and ease of use. If I cannot comfortably hold it in my hand, then it is kind of useless. If it does look appealing, I would just be turned off from the mod period before even testing the waters. If I cannot use the interface and fire the device with ease, then I would not consider buying it. After all that has been established I look at everything else the mod has to offer.

    Batteries: I prefer a mod that uses 2 or more batteries in series. I want my device to last all day. If I get a few days out of it then that is great also. One of the benefits of using 2 or more batteries is the fact that most chips will have to step-down voltage instead of using Pulse Width Modulation or other means to convert the voltages to the desired voltage/wattage. Because of this you will use less power than your batteries are supplying and get a much better battery life. It takes more power to step up voltage than to step down.

    Chip/Circuit Board: The type of chip included in the mod can make a big difference. Is it made by the big manufacturers? Is it an Evolv DNA or a Yihi? Is it some unknown chip that was just thrown together cheaply and has a potential to fail(this happens too much in the industry unfortunately, just look at all the failed iStick 50W)? Is the firmware able to be upgraded for more features and bug fixes? Is the screen large, bright, and easy to read? All of these can make or break a mod sale.

    Features: This is one that is the most subjective. What do I look for in features? Well stainless steel temp control is a big one for me. If I can run stainless steel TC and know that I am being safer with my vaping than running Ni200 or Ti wire, I will. The Triton SS coils are perfect for this. Also, the ease of setting up TC is a big thing also. A lot of mod I have found that TC can be difficult to set up on. It is always nice to have a safe Mechanical Mode on a device(called bypass mode on Pegasus). One suggestion I would have on the interface of the Pegasus is instead of asking for wire type, ask for Normal or TC. Some people may be confused if they are using wire other than Kanthal to run their atty. If TC is chosen then ask for wire type. Include all the standard safety stuff also. One thing I would love to see on a mod is a resistance read out that goes to the thousands. I know that this may seem redundant for a lot of people, but I have noticed that with the very low resistant TC builds it can make a difference. Knowing that your coils is at 0.1 Ohms doesn't tell me a lot. 0.09 is telling me more accurately what I have. 0.093 would give me the most accurate reading of a coil. A lot of features tend to just be extra stuff and that is okay. Throwing in extras that most people would not use is always a good idea as long as there is function to them. If they do not really serve a purpose on a mod(like telling you time and date, yes I have a mod that can) then they are just wasted code on the device that could be used for better function of the device.

    VV/VW: I love a mod that allows you to swap between Variable Voltage and Variable Wattage modes. When using a higher resistance atty like a Nautilus, I find it easier to set the device by Voltage instead of Wattage. When I am using a lower Ohm or sub-ohm coil, I prefer to use Wattage. I tend to find that I rarely never go above 100W. I like a mod that is 150W to 200W. It gives a greater range in case I would want to show off. Also, since you are not using the full potential of the device most of the time, your battery life tends to be better in these devices.

    Extra Bells and Whistles: Okay, these can be a deciding factor too. I will admit, I did my the Smok X Cube 2 due to the bells and whistles. It had the flashy lights, the bluetooth app, ect. The thing is though, with all the bells and whistles, the device actually functions quite well and you do not have to use all the flashy stuff. The fact that it has SS TC was actually the thing that lead me to buy it. Throw whatever you would want in this department but just make sure that if you do to make it so that we can either turn it off when needed or make it not annoying.

    Durability: If the mod cannot handle the daily stresses or survive a fall off a desk, then it is useless. Stuff happens and I do not want to have to go out and buy a mod later because it just can't survive that fall off your lap when getting out of your car. A nice durable 510 thread is also a must.

    One last thing I would like to see is the fire button be on the opposite side of the device from the screen and being able to adjust the mod while I am firing the device. On such a device I would have it optional for real time adjustments or a have a settings lock to make sure you do not accidentally change something. This would be very helpful when building coils so that you can bump up the settings if you need to really quick and not cool down your coils.

    Price: A $100 price tag is not out of the question for a solid mod that functions well and can handle a lot is not out of the question. The market is leaning towards cheaper mods now and I am seeing high wattage mods out there for $50 to $200+.
  • Hello,Old_salt,thank you so much for your kind suggestion.
    I will pass your suggestion to our product development department
    Wait for more suggestion from you. :D
  • edited December 2015 Vote Up0Vote Down
    I've thought a lot about the functionality I'd like to see in a MOD over the past several months, and have put some of them down here for comment. Unfortunately I'll have to put it aside for the next week or so as I celebrate the season with family and friends.

    Button Usage:
    - Firing Button
    - five short clicks toggles MOD On/Off
    - three short clicks activates top level menu
    - press and hold
    - fires MOD if menu not active
    - selects option if menu is active

    - Up/Down buttons (only active if firing button not held down)
    - if menu active, scrolls through menu items
    - if menu not active,
    - increases or decreases wattage/temperature depending on mode
    - press and hold both to Lock / Unlock current settings

    Top level menu:
    Memory: 1-16 Mode-Material-Resistance recall / set / clear
    - on entry, Up/Down buttons scroll through memory locations, firing button selects location; then

    - Recall: copies memory to current settings
    - only works if resistance within tolerance specified in settings, else display error message
    - set: copies all current settings to selected memory location,
    - displays Mode, Material, Resistance, Temp/Wattage
    - clear: clears current memory location

    Mode: Wattage / TC / Mechanical / Lock(Unlock)
    - Wattage mode
    - adjustable in 0.1W increments from 5W to the maximum the MOD is capable of
    - scroll increments 0.1W/1W/10W

    - TC Mode
    - adjustable in 2°C(5°F) increments from 150°C - 320°C(300°F-610°F)
    - scroll increments 2°/5°/20°C (5°/10°/50°F)

    - Scroll rate selection:
    - press and release +/- adjusts setting by minimum increment with no scroll
    - press and hold +/- for minimum increment
    - quick press then hold +/- for middle increment
    - two quick presses then hold +/- for maximum increment

    - On mode change or new coil detection cycle through following settings:
    - Mode (new coil only)
    - Wattage:
    - Coil Material (from list in settings)
    - Power Ramp (Slow / Normal / Fast / Max)
    - Wattage
    - temperature control
    - Coil Material (from list in settings, copy default coefficient to current settings)
    - temperature coefficient (+/- by least significant digit)
    - # of parallel coils (1-8 default 1)
    - temperature

    Current Settings Adjust

    - Coil Detection: Auto / Manual
    - Firmware Revision (display only)
    - Temp Coefficient (Defaults for up to 8 materials)
    - material (Ni200, SS, Ti, Ka), coefficient
    - new materials added through communications interface
    - default coefficients are adjustable here
    - Temp (°C °F) - automatically changes current and memory temperatures to new system
    (rounded to min increment)
    - coil resistance tolerance (default 20%)
    - Resistance adjust (MOD, tank, coil)
    - Scroll Speed - used to control speed of wattage / temperature changes
    - Factory Reset
  • @midnightwolf and @ Old_Salt Thank you so much for your kind suggestion.
    All have passed to our products development department,

    Merry Christmas
  • edited December 2015 Vote Up0Vote Down
    I really can't add anything more than what @midnightwolf and @Old_Salt have. I would just like to say that for me I do like features but I'm not a really technical person when it comes to vaping. Ease of use right out of the box is what I look for in a mod. I want to put in a battery (18650), set the watts and enjoy myself. I like to buy mini versions of mods. I don't have small hands but I don't like carrying around a brick. The Pegasus Mini is about the perfect size in my opinion. There is a trend of producing mods with so much technology that they are almost becoming mini computers. That and they are so powerful that in the wrong hands they can be extremely dangerous. Electricity is unforgiving and I don't want to see people getting hurt due to not understanding what they have in their hand.

    So for me. Ease of use and size are the key selling points. I want variable watts, variable voltage, and temperature control but I don't want to learn how to be an electrician or spend hours reading a manual to use it safely. Safety for any level of user must be the main feature of any mod.

    P.S. The digital screen on the Pegasus Mini is too bright. If needed I could use it as a flash light and that is too bright.
  • And make it to where you can adjust the ohms like on the smok xcube 2.
  • I have an IPV D2 and just got the IPV D3 and they have all of the features and power I need. Those mods are perfect. I bought an X Cube Mini and sold it the next day (I bought the IPV D3 with the money). It was too big and it takes too much thought just to use it as a basic mod.
  • as @ksedwar mentioned the display screen being too bright.....maybe an adjustment for the display screen? Say 3 increments of brightness that you could adjust via a main menu on the mod? I think that if you can adjust the brightness on your phone, you could easily integrate that feature into a mod. :-B
  • as @ksedwar mentioned the display screen being too bright.....maybe an adjustment for the display screen? Say 3 increments of brightness that you could adjust via a main menu on the mod? I think that if you can adjust the brightness on your phone, you could easily integrate that feature into a mod. :-B
  • Some very general thoughts on what would make the perfect mod:
    The perfect mod would be solid and durable but not heavy.
    It would have good (user friendly) firmware support and be stylish with a compact footprint.
    Ideally it would be moisture resistant to the point of sitting on a table and a tank full of pg drained on to the mod without letting any inside.
    Easy to read and navigate screen.
    Of course there is no such thing as perfection and ultimately all I really want is an affordable mod that functions well.
  • @meadal sincerely thanks for your kind suggestion.
    I will pass it to our products development department in today's daily meeting.
  • release 2 mod boxes . 1 DNA 200 (dual 18650s @ 133W) and/or include an aspire battery that can push 200 . the other regular that can be updated through firmware with all the latest options from coil to adjusting ohms . make them sleek looking like the Pegasus , price them against the competitors and watch the world go nuts !
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