Faked Aspire coils?

Was wondering if you guys are having quality issues or faked coil issues for the Triton tank and coils?
Bought the Odyssey kit and its good and original as per code check, But I burned the 1.5ohm coil, my bad, didnt know much when I first got the kit and understand much more now, But I was using my .5ohm coil for a good couple weeks and it started going out recently, My Ni-200 Coil never really worked well.. Was o.k. for a day and now when I try to use it it just vapes terribly, I am priming them properly

So I went to the local shop and the guy seemed to have legitimate Coil replacements so I bought one, coil looked the same too and was for the Aspire Atlantis tank but it should work just fine since they seem exactly the same(right?), but anyway I got the 70-80watt coil, primed it and set my Mod to 70W and it burned like shit, hurt my lungs to try to vape, and just was terrible, I took it back and the guy traded me it in confused as to why it was burning like that and he gave me a .5ohm Atlantis coil that was good for 20-30W and I primed it and ran it at 30W for a day and it went out and doesnt vape well and burns bad a tad but doesn't do anything else really.. Wondering if they are fakes or just bad coils or what in the world is going on with them? Im tempted to just move over to a cheapish kanger for now until I can get my triton all sorted out, but any ideas?
  • 7 Comments sorted by Votes Date Added
  • The 0.3Ω Atlantis coil (Kanthal) is rated at 70-80w, and the 1.0Ω Atlantis coil (Kanthal) is rated at 40-50w.
  • Old_Salt said:

    The 0.3Ω Atlantis coil (Kanthal) is rated at 70-80w, and the 1.0Ω Atlantis coil (Kanthal) is rated at 40-50w.

    It took me a while but I found that under the Aspire Atlantis series coils. I never knew they had more than the .5ohm for the Atlantis. Sorry....My Bad!
  • Why that coil 70-80 watt fried on you could mean its a fake, but then there are times when ya get a dud. :-?? I suppose that you really have to make sure that your local retailer is being honest with you and just return it as a DOA coil, it does happen.
  • Yeah not a problem, And yeah im sure it just fried, Not sure why, I like the shop and the guy sells good stuff normally but im just gonna stray away from buying coils for this tank there. Got another from a different shop in another town, packaging is different and was for the Triton tank specifically so when the coil im using now goes out then ill have another to use and see if its good too haha. Thanks for the help.

    Also, I got a hell of a deal on a Dark Horse RDA that shows every sign of being legitimate although theres no way to be sure, Ive got it running .11Ohm coils I made and they drain the battery incredibly fast, battery is brand new too, Was wondering if you recommend a different battery? One with maybe a higher Mah or that can handle more of a load?

    Battery I have works great with the Triton tank still though, so no issues there anymore. Leakage issues seem to stem from the tank not being reassembled properly when taken apart and from being left on its side for over a day or so
  • @Syphious I really can't comment on the DH RDA as I don't use mine very often and only for tasting juices. As far as batteries go, Aspire has one that is really great...here is the link so you can see the specs. https://online.aspirecig.com/aspire-18650-battery40a1800mah-p-107.html It is definately for high drain devices!
  • edited November 2015 Vote Up0Vote Down
    @Syphious Something to note about batteries - they have an internal resistance. This internal resistance is in series with your coil. It's much lower in high drain batteries than in high capacity batteries, for example 3000mAh. When you measure the voltage at either fully charged battery, without a load, it will read 4.2 volts. Just as an example let's say the 1800 high drain battery has an internal resistance of 0.025Ω, and the high capacity battery 3000mAh has an internal resistance of 0.05Ω. If you fire your 0.1Ω coil at 40 Watts, the current through the coil will be 20 Amps. That means the voltage at the high drain battery will drop to 3.7 Volts, and the high capacity battery will drop down to 3.2V. The power turned into heat within the high drain battery will be 10 watts, and in the high capacity battery 20 watts. This will quickly destroy the high capacity battery, if it doesn't go into thermal runaway.

    Note: The internal resistances I used are representative. I'd have to do a load test on a few batteries to determine a typical internal resistance for a specific brand and model.
  • Aah, Mkay, This makes things a lot clearer now, Thank you Old_Salt, and I may have to pickup one or two of those batteries then, thanks charlzrocks. I have an Aspire 2500Mah 20/40A battery right now, Would there be a difference between my 20/40A and just a 40A?
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